37. T.
E. LAWRENCES WALKING TOUR IN SYRIA, 1909
Soon after returning form his 1908 cycle tour of French castles, Lawrence discussed his
proposed thesis with C. F. Bell at the Ashmolean. Bell suggested that a much more
interesting study could be written comparing the castles of medieval Europe to those of
the Crusaders, in order to determine whether certain architectural features had their
origins in Europe or the East. Lawrence was intrigued by the idea, which he could put into
practice by changing his special paper from 'Military History and Strategy' to 'The first
three Crusades'.
By the beginning of January 1909 he had decided to make a tour of the major crusader
castles, few of which had been adequately planned or described. He intended to travel on
foot, relying on the hospitality of local villagers; he therefore learned a little
colloquial Arabic. Since there would be no picture postcards for sale he also took lessons
in drawing from the architectural illustrator E. H. New.
He left England on 18 June 1909 and spent nearly three months in Syria. The journey
proved to be a turning point in his life: he was fascinated by the people and the places
he visited, and even before he went home to England he had decided to go back as soon as
he could find a pretext for doing so.